So many people ask me why would gardeners want to grow aconite’s in their garden considering how toxic this plant is.
The honest answer is, for many reasons – and below I will explain more.
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Flower Gardening
How To Make Compost At Home
There are links in the article below to products I recommend from companies I have a referral relationship with. I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links.
Learning how to make compost at home isn’t difficult to do.
More than likely you have all the tools and ingredients you need to start composting in your own yard and kitchen.
Why Compost?
Compost is the best way to improve your garden soil in preparation for planting.
It is the best way to make the richest garden soil possible and the result of that is healthy plants.
Using your own compost to make your own soil is an amazing experience.
What you get when you are done is rich, black soil that smells earthy and is ideal for growing all kinds of plants in.
There are many advantages to composting.
The first advantage is you get free black gold for your plants.
The second advanage is you save waste from being hauled to the landfill.
The third advantage is you help to save the environment eliminate run off from your yard and having less need for pesticides in your own garden.
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The Best Soil Amendment
Simply put, there is no better soil amendment than compost.
Black gold, as it is called, is made from organic waste that would otherwise end up in the landfill; items such as weeds, plant clippings, kitchen scraps, livestock manure, shredded paper, leaves and grass clippings, to name just a few.
When combined, these materials heat up, break down and turn into black gold.
The more you turn your compost pile, which adds oxygen to the mix, the faster the materials will break down.
However, if turning a compost pile is not your idea of a good time, try slow composting – it does work.
Compost – An Environmentally Friendly Option
Using compost to improve your soil helps to eliminate the runoff that so typically happens when synthetic fertilizers are used.
This is because the increased amount of organic matter in your soil allows water to soak into and travel through the soil to your plants roots, rather than to puddle on the surface or simply flow away.
Soil enriched with compost also holds fertilizer better.
When a heavy rain hits, if you have poor soil that cannot take up the fertilizers you have applied, those fertilizers wash away.
The run off often ends up polluting a stream, or harming local wildlife that drink the puddles of water they find.
Soil that is compost enriched generally does not need synthetic fertilizers because the compost provides everything your plants need to thrive.
You’ll also need fewer pesticides if you even need them at all.
Super-healthy plants are less susceptible to disease and insect attacks.
Less chemicals in your garden encourages beneficial insects to take up residence and they will deal with the few insects that do try to invade.
Creating compost is all about not wasting or polluting precious natural resources.
This is something we all need to find a way to do.
It is also about finding a better, more environmentally friendly way to garden.
Composting allows us to work with the natural flow of nature.
We can learn how to garden by the seasons using compost to warm and enrich our soil.
We can turn waste into a reusable product that does not require any non-renewable resources nor harm the environment in the process.
Making compost at home is a five step process and the really good news is you can start the process today, right in your own kitchen or backyard by simply saving fruit and vegetable scraps you might otherwise throw away or by collecting leaves or grass clippings.
Here is how to get started making compost at home.
Step #1: Gather Carbon-Rich Materials
Shredded newspapers, tea bags, coffee grounds, egg shells, fall leaves, straw, dead flowers as long as they did not die from a disease work great as brown materials.
Spread carbon-rich materials around a 3-foot by 3-foot area, making the pile about six inches inches thick.
This pile can be put directly on your garden or contained inside of a compost bin.
Be sure to do this in a sunny location of your yard.
If you’re not using a compost bin, use big sticks and fallen branches to create a base area, however be aware that this material does not break down quickly, so be prepared to use the slow compost method instead of trying to turn the pile.
Step #2: Add Nitrogen-Rich Materials
Now take green materials like grass clippings, weeds, hedge trimmings, kitchen scraps such as raw fruit or vegetable peelings or raw bones (no meat or dairy), and livestock manure (goat, poultry, horse, cow, sheep – no dog, cat or shavings from small animals other than rabbits) from non-carnivore animals.
Chicken manure works great and yes, while it is not green in color, it has lots of green stuff in it.
Layer this mixture on top of the brown materials you already piled up.
Make sure the green materials are approximately two inches thick.
The ratio to remember is three times as much brown material as green material.
Step #3: Add Garden Soil
On top of the green and brown materials, add a thin layer of garden soil.
For those who choose to use a soil mix instead of their garden soil, choose a soil mix that is organic, free of fuel-based ingredients and peat moss.
If you already have prepared soil from your garden, it will work better to add some of that into your compost mixture rather than packaged soil that could have ingredients in it that you don’t want to use.
Step #4: Prepare Area
Next make another layer with brown materials.
Moisten the layers, then add several more layers until your pile is at least three feet tall.
Keep in mind you are looking for a ratio of three parts brown materials to one part green materials.
It doesn’t matter how many layers you put, just keep in mind this ratio as you make your layers.
Step #5: Have Patience
Over the next few weeks, turn the soil with a fork or shovel every couple of weeks to incorporate oxygen into the compost pile.
You want to move the materials from the inside of the pile to the outside of the pile.
Keep the pile moist but avoid allowing it to get soggy.
If you need to tent it or cover the pile with a tarp to prevent rain from washing it away, that is ok to do.
You can also put all the ingredients into a special container called a compost bin to protect it if you prefer.
Plus, you won’t harm the environment; in fact, you’ll improve the environment because you are no longer adding more stuff to your local landfill.
Final Thoughts
The amount of time it takes to go from raw material to finished compost varies depending on the composting method you use.
The most important thing to keep in mind is not to use your compost until the natural reactions that occur in the compost pile are finished.
Once this happens, your compost is cured and ready to use.
Cured compost is not hot – and you do not want to use hot compost unless you are using it in early spring to warm the soil because hot compost can fry a plants roots or kill seeds.
Cured compost is dark and crumbly with no “organic” smell.
To use your cured compost, add a three inch thick layer on top of the soil making sure it does not directly touch any plant stems or alternatively add a small layer to the top of the soil in your container gardens.
Do this every spring and soon your soil is going to be full of all the necessary nutrients your plants need.
This is the process to build healthy organic soil – and while it does not happen overnight, once your soil is healthy you will notice a difference in the health of the plants you grow and the harvest you reap.
I highly recommend the following articles:
- How To Grow Tomatoes
- Control Tomato Pests With These Organic Gardening Tips
- Tips For Starting A Container Garden
- Benefits Of Container Gardening During Changeable Weather Conditions
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Benefits Of Container Gardening During Changeable Weather Conditions
There are links in the article below to products I recommend from companies I have a referral relationship with. I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links.
There are many benefits of container gardening, especially when the weather is constantly changing.
This spring , at least here in Indiana, has been a challege – to say the least – for gardeners who want to plant in the ground.
One day, the weather is warm and very spring-like.
The next day there is snow on the ground and the temperatures are below freezing.
Honestly, I don’t ever remember seeing spring weather like this before and the best way to combat this is to grow plants in containers this year.
Changeable Weather Conditions Do Affect Plants
I believe climate change is happening and that makes it difficult to maintain our gardens the way we always have.
One of the difficulties of maintaining a lush garden is fickle weather.
Changing weather patterns also inhibits plants’ growth and development.
Any slight variation in the weather pattern brings about drastic effects to plants and often makes gardening unsustainable.
One way to get around tricky weather conditions is to grow your plants in containers.
Container gardening is a good solution that you can scale up or down to suit your need.
There are plenty of benefits to this form of spring gardening including harvesting some vegetables earlier than if they were planted in the ground.
Aside from its space-saving advantage, it can help you produce flowers, herbs or vegetables despite tricky weather conditions.
Read on to find out how container gardening can help you get around your gardening issues with changing weather patterns.
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You Can Position Container Gardens to Beat Lousy Weather
You can grow an adequate amount of herbs, vegetables or flowers even if you are experiencing challenging weather conditions.
Whether it’s due to prolonged dry or wet season, container gardening allows you to position your plants in such a way that they don’t get exposed to extremely cold or scorching weather.
You can move and space taller plants in strategic spots to serve as windbreaks and to protect smaller and more fragile plants from high wind or heavy rain.
Aside from windbreaks, you may place more heat-tolerant plants in such a way that they provide shade to plants that don’t need full sun.
Containers can also heat up quickly during the day, so always place less heat-tolerant plants on the north side of your property and the heat-loving ones on the south side.
Container Gardening Helps You Save Water During Dry Seasons.
Water is fast becoming an expensive commodity.
Some places have restricted its use during seasons of drought, resulting in steep environmental penalties if you do not follow the protocols.
Container gardens are an effective way to save on water and still achieve your desired harvest.
You can group your pots in a way that maximizes your garden’s mist or drip irrigation system.
Container Gardeners Can Take Advantage of Microclimates
Some areas of your garden will naturally stay shaded throughout the day.
Whether you are gardening in an urban or a rural landscape, you can take advantage of these microclimates to grow plants in warm — or cool environments.
Keep a look out on trees shadows, walls, and roof shade as these can provide an area for growing less heat-tolerant plants.
On the other hand, watch out for areas that receive plenty of light, so you can still grow your plants during colder seasons.
These are the main things you gain from container gardening in this period of climate chaos.
While some would recommend that you buy huge containers to plant more in little spaces, try to invest in pots and bins that you can quickly move in case the weather decides to change its mind.
Finally, you can practice other farming techniques with container gardening such as growing intensively in a small space and even companion planting to prevent pests and plant diseases.
I highly recommend the following articles:
- Tips For Starting A Container Garden
- Sugar Water For Butterflies Recipe
- Easy To Grow Tomatoes Ideal For Container Gardens
- Creative Tips for Container Gardening
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Understanding Why Your Hardiness Zone Matters
There are links in the article below to products I recommend from companies I have a referral relationship with. I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links.
It is important to know your USDA hardiness zone so you have a better understanding of what kind or variety of plant is best for you to buy, when to plant, what grows best in your climate, and how to better take advantage of your specific growing conditions.
There are also links to products I recommend from companies I have a referral relationship with. I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links.
About The USDA Hardiness Zone Map
The USDA Zone Map consists of Canada and the United States and it divides these regions into 11 different zones seperated by a 10 degree difference in terms of the average coldest winter temperature.
The zones are arranged based on what the expected lowest winter temperature is, based on the climate average.
The current Zone Map averages are derived from the winter averages of 1974 – 1986.
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Know What to Plant
For you to accurately know what to plant, you must know your USDA hardiness Zone.
The Zone Map will help you decide if a plant will survive in your area, be perennial, or an annual.
For example, if I am looking at a plant that is hardy in Zone 5 through Zone 10, considering the fact that I live in Zone 5, the plant is hardy to my area.
If your zone falls between the range stated for the plant, then the plant is hardy for your area.
So this particular plant is also hardy or can be a perennial in zones 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10.
If a particular plant says that it is hardy down to Zone 5, then it will should be hardy to a warmer climate, however some plants simply do not thrive in warmer conditions.
If your zone is lower than the zone listed on your plant info, then that particular plant, tree, or shrub will not be hardy to your zone, and you will need to treat this plant as an annual.
For example, I am in Zone 5, if a plant says that it is hardy to Zones 9 – 11 that means that I will have to treat this plant as an annual here in Zone 5.
Once you know your zone, it becomes much easier to determine if a plant will be perennial and survive winters in your area.
How USDA Hardiness Zones Work
It is important to note that the zone map is based on the plant being planted into the ground.
It does not take into consideration your season extending greenhouses or covering which typically raise your hardiness zone by 2 zones.
For example, I am in USDA Hardiness Zone 5, so with a single layer of 6 mil. plastic cold frame I can raise my hardiness zone to a zone 7.
Raised beds and pots will also be cooler than the ground and are more likely to freeze, so I also take this into consideration.
Plants are less hardy in a container or raised bed than they would be in the ground.
If you are planting in any kind of raised bed or container, you will need to decide upon a plant that is hardy to at least two zones less than the zone you live in.
For example, I live in Zone 5, but if I was doing my planting in pots outside, I would need to select plants that are hardy to Zone 3 and under.
If you are moving towards a more sustainable, lower maintenance, perennial garden it is imperative that you know your zone, the zone tolerance of the plant, understand how the USDA hardiness zones work, and plan accordingly to these details.
Yes, You Can Fool Mother Nature
It is possible to fool a plant into performing year round or overwintering in a climate it is not hardy in as long as it receives an adequate amount of light, the proper temperature, enough fertilizer and water.
Gardeners have been doing this for many years, especially with vegetables and once you learn how to accomplish this you will be surprised at what you can grow under cover, year round or simply keep alive during the winter months in the ground.
Creating an artificial environment that plants will thrive in is not hard.
A simple structure covered in clear plastic can raise the growing temperature inside of it enough to grow plants year round that might otherwise perish if they were left exposed to Mother Nature’s elements.
Fooling Mother Nature is easy, it can be done with virtually any plant and a covered garden structure such as a cold frame or greenhouse.
The question you need to answer is how far are you willing to go to be able to grow what you want to grow year round.
For most gardeners, simply growing what thrives in their USDA Hardiness Zone is good enough for them.
I highly recommend the following articles:
- How To Grow And Care For Iris
- The Best Time To Plant Bulbs
- How To Successfully Grow Mums
- Fall Blooming Perennials Roundup
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3 Quick Fall Garden Tasks To Do Now
There are links in the article below to products I recommend from companies I have a referral relationship with. I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links.
Fall is a busy time of year with all the back-to-school activities, fall decorating tasks, upcoming holidays and of course, the end of the garden season for many, not to mention fall garden tasks!
There are three quick fall garden tasks you can do now while the weather is still nice enough for you to comfortably work in the garden.
These tasks are going to make starting the garden in spring much easier.
Don’t worry about completing each task in its entirety, instead do a little at a time – each day – so you don’t feel like you are spending hours on each task and missing out on all the other fun fall activities.
There are also links to products I recommend from companies I have a referral relationship with. I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links.
Task #1 – Plant Bulbs
Fall is the perfect time to plant bulbs that are hardy in your area.
Most of the perennials are still alive so you can see where those are planted.
Those of us – like me – with older gardens might have a hard time remembering exactly where the spring bulbs are already planted.
Painting the soil in the spring with the proper type of paint or using stakes to mark out the area is a good idea but if you did not get that done, you can always look at pictures you took or just go on memory.
It is ok to continue to plant bulbs as long as you can dig in the ground.
In the event you dig up any previously planted bulbs, just re-plant them.
This is also a great time to dig and divided perennials or bulbs that are overcrowded.
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Task #2 – Empty Flower Pots
Once frost hits your area many flowers grown in containers are killed.
Once this happens, go ahead and remove the dead plant material then empty the soil out of the containers.
Compost the soil and plant material as long as the plant was not diseased.
The reason for doing this is many times even pots that are “frost-proof” are not “freeze-proof” and will burst over the winter.
It also allows you to continue on to task #3 and get those flower pots ready for spring.
Task #3 – Clean, Stack And Store Empty Pots
Once the flower pots are empty, it is a good idea to wash them out with hot, soapy water.
This removes any dirt, bits of root or other stuff that may be climbing to your flower pot – inside or out.
I then rinse my flower pots in hot water and give them a good spray with hydrogen peroxide.
You can rinse the hydrogen peroxide off if you wish – and I usually do.
I prefer using hydrogen peroxide instead of bleach because if there are any traces left in the pot, the hydrogen peroxide won’t hurt the plants.
Bleach on the other hand could kill a plant.
Once the flower pots are clean and dry, go ahead and stack them according to size.
This makes them easy to store inside a building for winter – and easy for you to quickly find the right size pot once the spring planting season rolls around again.
I highly recommend the following articles:
- Fall Blooming Perennials Roundup
- How To Successfully Grow Mums
- Garden Flower Ideas For Late Summer
- How To Grow And Care For Iris
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Natural Gardening Tips For Fall Planting
There are links in the article below to products I recommend from companies I have a referral relationship with. I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links.
Here are a few natural gardening tips for fall planting that are sure to help make sure your spring garden is looking its best.
Autumn is the perfect time to plant perennials.
This gives them the entire fall and winter season to establish themselves.
Perennials planted in the fall are ready to begin growing once the spring growing season arrives.
There are also links to products I recommend from companies I have a referral relationship with. I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links.
Perennials For Fall Planting
Here is a great selection of perennials for you to plant this fall:
- Aster
- Cape Fuschia
- Catmint
- Coreopsis
- Delphinium
- Gaillardia
- Gaura
- Lavender
- Penstemon
- Scabiosa
- Salvia
- Shasta Daisies
- Yarrow
- Verbena
These hard working plants will fill your garden with color.
Be sure to choose ones that are looking their best at the garden center or nursery.
While it is possible to revive clearance sale plants, be aware they might not survive a severe winter.
Plants without blooms are ok and some even remove the blooms once they get them home so the plant puts all its energy into growing instead of blooming.
Interplant Perennials With Bulbs
When planting autumn perennials, don’t forget to choose some spring blooming bulbs such as tulips, daffodils and hyacinth to add color early in the season.
Choose bulbs that will naturalize for best results.
I like using a few groundcover plants as well because they fill in around the bulbs and perennials.
This helps cut down on the amount of mulch you need and also helps prevent weeds – naturally.
Here is how to interplant bulbs and perennials:
- Dig each planting hole about ten inches deep.
- Mix some compost in with the existing soil.
- Return some of the amended soil to the hole.
- You will plant the bulbs first, so if they need to be planted eight inches deep, you will add two inches of soil to the hole, then set the bulbs in place.
- Make sure to keep all of the bulb wrappers and packages picked up.
- Critters such as squirrels will search above ground for bits of bulb wrappers.
- Once they find bits and pieces of bulbs or bulb wrappers, they begin searching for the newly planted bulbs.
- Once the bulbs are in place be sure to cover the top of the bulbs with amended soil, then plant your perennials directly above them.
- Add more compost as a top dressing when you are done.
- Water your new plants well.
What To Expect In Spring
When spring arrives the bulbs will come up and flower.
Once those flowers fade the perennial foliage will begin to emerge.
The newly emerging perennial foliage will help hide the dying bulb foliage.
Within a short time the perennials will be flowering where the bulbs once were.
When choosing perennials to plant a few that bloom early, some that bloom mid-season, and some that bloom in the fall so you get a succession of bloom throughout the season.
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I highly recommend the following articles:
- How To Grow And Care For Iris
- The Best Time To Plant Bulbs
- How To Successfully Grow Mums
- Fall Blooming Perennials Roundup
Use the buttons on the right hand side of the screen to share this article with friends or family who might find it useful. Pin the picture below to your pinboard on Pinterest for future reference.
Fall Blooming Perennials Roundup
There are links in the article below to products I recommend from companies I have a referral relationship with. I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links.
Here is a selection of fall blooming perennials that different bloggers recommend for fall.
I hope you will visit some of their blogs, leave some comments and find some fall blooming perennials that work well for you.
Here in Indiana the color keeps going well into October and with the addition of winter blooming perennial plants like Hellebores and witch hazels there is some color even on the dreariest winter day.
In addition to the information below, there are also links to products I recommend from companies I have a referral relationship with. I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links.
Fall Blooming Perennials:
Favorite Fall Perennials (sensiblegardening.com)
Late Blooming Daylilies (sensiblegardening.com)
Fab Fall Flowers To Plant (sensiblegardening.com)
Orange Flowers For The Fall Garden (gardenchick.com)
Garden Matter Scoop: September Charm (gardenmatter.com)
Garden Flower Ideas For Late Summer (Exotic Gardening Thoughts)
Monkshood Flowers For The Fall (Exotic Gardening Thoughts)
Late Summer And Fall Blooming Perennials (landscapedesignbylee.blogspot.com/)
Flower Seeds That Need To Be Planted In The Fall (creativecountrymom.blogspot.com)
Perennial Late Summer, Fall Blooms (amandasgreenhouse.blogspot.com)
The 10 Best Perennials To Plant For Fall (judyscottagegarden.blogspot.com)
Fall Blooming Perennials (hughconlon.blogspot.com)
Native Aster: Drought Tolerant Fall Blooming Perennials (plantnative.blogspot.com)
How To Successfully Grow Mums (Exotic Gardening Thoughts)
Fall Flower Gardening Tasks:
Last Minute Fall Garden Clean Up (homegardenjoy.com)
The Best Time To Plant Bulbs (Exotic Gardening Thoughts)
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Monkshood Flowers For The Fall
There are links in the article below to products I recommend from companies I have a referral relationship with. I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links.
Monkshood (Aconitum) is one of the reliable blooming flowers for the fall garden.
In Indiana, it typically blooms in October, but I have seen it in bloom as early as September and as late as November.
In addition to the information below on how to grow the plant, there are also links to products I recommend from companies I have a referral relationship with. I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links.
A Toxic Beauty
The dark blue flowers stand out in the garden especially given that most plants other than mums have finished blooming by the time it starts.
Monkshood is truly a majestic plant that every gardener should grow – but remember it is also a toxic plant.
It is best to wear gloves when working with it and plant it towards the back of your border so innocent garden guests don’t bump into it.
There have been cases reported where just brushing against the plant has caused death.
Starting From Seed
Although I have tried to grow the species from seed – and have had the seeds sprout – they never seem to make it past the first couple of weeks.
This may be – in part – because as summer creeps in it becomes harder and harder for me to find time to care for the young seedlings in my greenhouse.
Some thrive on minimal care – and others such as the monkshood perish.
The ones I have actually came from a plant sale – and the one I bought has multiplied.
It is not aggressive at this point, but has put out several new starts which I am grateful for.
Where To Plant Monkshood
Many people plant monkshood in full sun or part shade, but I made the decision to plant it in full shade – and it does fine however sometimes I do have to stake it.
I have mine planted under a locust tree in the center of one of my shade garden.
I moved it to this area two years ago.
When I first planted it, I put it on the edge of a pathway where it got dappled sunlight in the morning, but due to its toxic nature, I decided to move it where it was not accessible by people walking past.
In the center of the shade garden, it gets full shade during the hottest part of summer, but as the leaves on the trees begin to fall, more sun gets into the area.
The blooms are larger this year and the plant has grown taller.
I have found this plant a permanent spot in the garden where it will thrive.
Hellebore, Arum and Vinca grow around it,
What I love best about this plant is even after frost has killed off most of the plants in the garden, this one is still going strong.
It also does not seem to mind drought once it is established.
The area where mine is growing is pretty dry most of the year and I refuse to water established plants unless they are literally wilting.
I do not fertilize either – an occasional top dressing of compost and the decaying leaves from the trees is all my plants get.
Final Thoughts
Monkshood is a carefree plant and one that I would not want to miss out on growing in my garden.
It certainly adds a burst of unusual color to the fall garden.
Just take some precautions with it and mark it with a toxic sign when you have visitors come to your garden, then enjoy those late fall blooms!
I highly recommend the following articles:
- Fall Blooming Perennials Roundup
- How To Successfully Grow Mums
- Garden Flower Ideas For Late Summer
- 3 Quick Fall Garden Tasks To Do Now
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The Best Time To Plant Bulbs
There are links in the article below to products I recommend from companies I have a referral relationship with. I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links.
This post is courtesy of The Netherlands Flower Bulb Information Center.
The best time to plant bulbs varies by a few weeks according to what bulb planting region you live in.
Below are the regions as well as a few tips for fall planting, courtesy of the Netherlands Flower Bulb Information Center.
There are also links to products I recommend from companies I have a referral relationship with. I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links.
When To Plant Bulbs
Plant bulbs when the night time temperatures are between 40-50 degrees F, making sure that this is done at least six weeks before freezing to allow the bulbs to begin to root.
Water your bulbs thoroughly after you plant them and apply a slow release fertilizer to the soil that is specifically designed for bulbs.
Do not put the fertilizer in the same hole as the bulb. This can cause the tender roots of the bulb to burn.
Once the ground has frozen you can mulch your bulbs with a lightweight mulch such as pine needles, straw or chopped up leaves.
What Are Perennials?
Perennials are plants that over-winter in the garden and will come back the following year.
Perennials also multiply over time.
How To Wow!
Skillful combinations of bulbs and perennials can be quite dramatic.
“In the last decade, American gardeners have become increasingly sophisticated in their uses of perennials in the garden,” says Frans Roozen, technical director of theInternationalFlowerBulbCenterin Hillegom,Holland. “Fall planting gives perennials a leg up on the next season. If they’re fully rooted in fall before winter season snows or rains, come spring, they’re fully established and ready to grow. With fall planting, everything happens faster and plants acquire extra strength.
Bulb Planting Regions
Many of you know that you should plant your bulbs in the fall, but did you know that there were sixteen different U.S. Bulb planting regions?
These regions greatly affect your choices in bulbs and proper planting times.
The reason for this is that it is important to take into consideration such things as climate, elevation, average rainfall as well as other various seasonal weather patterns.
This information will help you to achieve the maximum success possible with your bulbs.
Region “A” is theNew England area – USDA Hardiness Zones 3, 4 and 5
The conditions here are almost perfect for spring-flowering bulbs.
If you would like to try to grow something that is not hardy to your area, you can try these tips.
Although success is not guaranteed, you just might be surprised at the outcome.
Choose a site that is well protected from wind and extreme cold and mulch your bulbs heavily.
Plant the bulb deeper than you would if it was in it’s natural environment.
A good place to try this is up against a foundation or another equally protected spot.
The optimum planting time for this region is September 15th through November 15th.
Bulbs that will naturalize well in this area include Scilla siberica, Narcissus poeticus var. recurvus, Tulipa clusiana ‘Cynthia,’ Allium moly, Eranthis cilicica, Galanthus nivalis, Colchicum byzantinum and Crocus tommasinianus.
Region “B” is the Mid-Atlantic Coastal area – USDA Hardiness Zones 6, 7 and 8
For those of you who like marginally hardy or tropical plants this would be an area to try them as long as they are planted in an area that is protected from wind and extreme cold.
You can also put some straw or a light mulch of pine needles around the foliage that begins to emerge early to help protect it from burn.
However, even if it does get slightly burned, it will not affect the flowering.
The optimum planting time for this region is October 1st through November 30th.
Good choices for bulbs that will naturalize easily in this area include Narcissus bulbocodium conspicuus, Narcissus obvallaris, Tulipa clusiana var. chrysantha, Chionodoxa forbesii, Hyacinthoides hispanicus, Ipheion uniflorum and Ornithogalum nutans.
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Region “C” is the Appalachian area – USDA Hardiness Zones 5 and 6
Due to the variety of elevations in your region, you have many opportunities for different planting styles.
The hills and banks in this area make perfect spots for creative designs.
The optimum planting time in this region is September 15th through November 30th.
Bulbs that naturalize well here include Chionodoxa sardensis, Crocus ancyrensis ‘Golden Bunch,’ Erthronium dens-canis (in woodland areas), Fritillaria meleagris (in damp meadow areas), Geranium tuberosum, Hyacinthoides hispanica and Scilla bifolia.
Region “D” is the South Atlantic Coastal area – USDA Hardiness Zones 7 and 8
The climate here is moderate with hot, moist summers and cool or cold, moist winters.
This gives you the opportunity to grow many spring-flowering bulbs successfully.
The only drawback being that due to the moist conditions, many bulbs will not perennialize well.
If this is your goal, check with local gardening centers for their advice.
If you have an automatic irrigation system, plant your bulbs will they will remain relatively dry.
The optimum planting time for this zone is October 15th through December 15th.
Bulbs that will easily naturalize here include Narcissus bulbocodium (in the lawn), Narcissus jonquilla (perfect for hot summers), Tulipa saxatilis, Allium sphaerocephalon, Arum italicum (shade), Chionodoxa forbesii, Crocus tommasinianus and Ipheion uniflorum (in the lawn).
Region “E” is the Great Lakes area – USDA Hardiness Zones 5, 6 and 7
Given the fact that this region is greatly affected by the extreme climate changes and heavy winds from theGreat Lakes, choosing shorter, sturdier cultivars that can stand up to these conditions may be more appropriate.
The optimum planting time for this zone is September 15th through November 15th.
Bulbs that will easily naturalize here include Allium triquetrum (in woodland areas), Crocus tommasinianus ‘Ruby Giant,’ Eranthis cilicica (damp, woodland areas), Erythronium (woodland areas), Leucojum aestivum (at a streams edge), Scilla siberica (in woodland areas or lawns) and Triteleia ‘Queen Fabiola’ (dry, meadow areas).
Region “F” is the East Central area – USDA Hardiness Zones 5, 6 and 7
This is an excellent area for most spring-flowering bulbs because of the moderately cold winters, ample moisture and the warm to hot summers.
The optimum planting time for this region is October 1st to November 30th.
Bulbs that naturalize here are Allium roseum, Anemone nemorosa (woodland area), Chionodoxa forbesii, Crocus sieberi ‘Firefly,’ Crocus tommasinianus, Geranium tuberosum, Hyancinthoides hispanica and Nectaroscordum siculum.
Region “G” is the South Central area – USDA Hardiness Zones 7 and 8
Although your climate will allow most spring-flowering bulbs to flourish, the bulbs that have longer cold requirements and a drier summer dormancy period will not.
On occasion some tropical, semi-tender bulbs will naturalize in this climate.
This is also an area where many heirloom bulbs are found in old homes and cemeteries.
The optimum planting time for this zone is October 15th through December 15th.
Bulbs that will naturalize here include Narcissus jonquilla, Tulipa clusiana ‘Cynthia,’ Tulipa saxatilis, Allium neapolitanum, Allium sphaerocephalon, Dracunculus vulgaris, Muscari neglectum and Triteleia laxa ‘Queen Fabiola’.
Region “H” is the Tropical area – USDA Zone 10
Although this climate rarely gets frost, it does have very hot and humid summers.
This is an ideal climate for many summer-blooming tropical bulbs but is not such a great environment for more traditional spring-flowering bulbs such as the tulip.
If you really must have tulips or other spring-blooming bulbs that won’t thrive in your climate you can buy them yearly from a local garden center or try over-wintering them in your refrigerator to give them a proper chill and then try forcing them.
This is a good zone for using raised beds to help improve drainage after the summer storms.
The optimum planting time for bulbs in this region is December 1st through January 31st.
Bulbs that will naturalize in his region include Oxalis regnellii var. triangularis, Oxalis tetraphylla and Oxalis tetraphylla ‘Iron Cross.’
Region “I” is theGulfCoastarea – USDA Hardiness Zones 8 and 9
This is another region that is great for summer blooming bulbs, however, it also is a fine area for many spring-blooming bulbs too as long as they are carefully chosen.
Daffodils and other narcissi will thrive here.
The optimum planting time for this region is October 1st to December 31st.
Bulbs for naturalizing here include Narcissus jonquilla, Narcissus odorus campernelli, Dracunculus vulgaris, Gladiolus communis byzantinus, Hyacinthoides hispanica, Ipheion uniflorum, Leucojum aestivum, Ornithogalum nutans and Oxalis tetraphylla ‘Iron Cross.’
Region “J” is the Northern Central area – USDA Hardiness Zones 3 and 4
The biggest challenge this region faces is the moisture level.
To help offset this problem a bit of extra water in the event of a dry autumn may help the rooting process.
Also, in the event of no snow, add an extra layer of mulch to the top of the bulbs to help keep them cool.
The optimum planting time for this region is September 15th to November 1st.
Bulbs that naturalize well in this region include Narcissus poeticus var. recurvus, Tulipa clusiana chrysantha, Allium flavum, Allium oreophilum, Eremurus stenophyllus, Muscari azureum and Scilla siberica.
Region “K” is the Central andGreat Plains area – USDA Hardiness Zones 5 and 6
This region allows for a wide variety of hardy spring-flowering bulbs.
However, you will need to plant them in areas with less wind and extreme cold exposure to help extend the blooming season.
Doing this will also help to protect early spring or late fall bloomers from the extreme temperature fluctuations.
In the event of a dry spring, water weekly as long as the foliage is green.
The optimum planting time for this region is September 30th to November 30th.
Bulbs to choose for naturalizing in this region include Tulipa tarda, allium caeruleum, Chionodoxa forbesii (for shady areas), Crocus tommasinianus, Dichelostemma congestum, Eremurus stenophyllus, Ixiolirion tataricum and Muscari armeniacum.
Region “L” is theRocky Mountains area – USDA Hardiness Zones 2, 3 and 4
This is largely an alpine environment that makes it excellent for hardy spring-flowering bulbs.
The optimum planting time for this region is September 15th to November 1st.
Bulbs that naturalize well in this area include Narcissus peoticus var. recurvus, Tulipa tarda, Allium caeruleum, Allium Flavum, Allium neapolitanum, Camassia leichtlinii, Eremurus stenophyllus and Erythronium.
Region “M” is the Arid West area – USDA Hardiness Zones 5, 6 and 7
This region is good for growing many bulbs, especially those native to dry climates.
However, this is a very diverse region and your specific climatic conditions must be taken into consideration.
Some of these major factors include high-mountain altitude, low-desert heat and sheltered valley basins.
Because of the numerous pockets of extreme climate variance, you may want to supplement the information here with a reference book such as the Sunset Publication’s Western Garden Book or you can visit their website.
The best planting time for this region is September 30th through November 30th.
Some suggested bulbs for naturalizing include Allium neapolitanum, Allium uniflorum, Eremurus, Fritillaria purdyi, Triteleia hyancinthis and Ipheion.
Region “N” is the Northern Pacific Coast area – USDA Hardiness Zone 8
This is a perfect region for many spring-flowering bulbs.
This region is the closest we come in theU.S.to the English countryside climate.
Suggestions for ordering bulbs for people in this climate include writing a letter with your order explaining that you would like your bulbs sent at a specific time.
This will help to avoid your bulbs arriving after the heavy rains have begun.
The optimum planting time for this zone is October 1st through December 1st.
Bulbs that will naturalize in this area include Anemone ranunculoides, Arum italicum, Calochortus ‘Golden Orb,’ Dichelostemma ‘Pink Diamond,’ Eranthis cilicica, Galanthus nivalis ‘Viridi-apice,’ Hermodactylus and Nectaroscordum siculum.
Region “O” is the Southern Pacific Coast area – USDA Hardiness Zones 9 and 10
Few gardeners realize that this is a great area for flower bulbs.
Try bulbs such as trumpet daffodils, dwarf narcissi and iris.
Tulips that usually do well in this climate include single lates, double lates, lily-flowered and some of the species types.
There are two major fall planting seasons for this climate.
For bulbs that are native to the Mediterranean area or other similar climates, plant anywhere from mid-August (or sooner if available) to December.
Dutch bulbs should be planted anywhere from mid-October through late January.
There are quite a few bulbs that will naturalize in this climate. Some of these include Allium sphaerocephalon, Spanish bluebells, Scilla peruviana, Oxalis purpurea, Bearded Iris, Paperwhite narcissi, Freesia, Watsonia, Sparaxis, Tritonia, Leucojum aestivum and Ixia.
Region “P” is the Alaska area – USDA Hardiness Zones 1 through 7
This area is very large and variable with a very short growing season.
Being creative in this region can help many bulbs to thrive.
The best planting time is from September 15th through October 15th.
Bulbs that will naturalize here include Allium moly, Allium oreophilum, Camassia leichtlinii, Chionodoxa forbesii, Crocus tommasinianus, Fritillaria camschantcensis, Galanthus elwesii and Narcissus poeticuc var. recurvus.
I highly recommend the following articles:
- How To Grow And Care For Iris
- Natural Gardening Tips For Fall Planting
- Fall Blooming Perennials Roundup
- Monkshood Flowers For Fall
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How To Grow And Care For Iris
There are links in the article below to products I recommend from companies I have a referral relationship with. I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links.
Learning to grow iris is not hard.
In fact they are one of the easiest flowers to grow once you learn how to properly care for them.
Brief Background
I don’t know about you, but I love growing Irises in my garden.
I’ve had the regular ones and the re-blooming ones which are really cool because here in Indiana they bloom in late September or early October when not much else is in bloom.
This year has been an exceptional year for growing Iris – the blooms are larger, the stems the blooms are on are taller and even the leaves look better.
Iris is a fairly easy plant to grow once you know a few things about it.
There are also links to products I recommend from companies I have a referral relationship with. I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links.
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How To Plant Iris Rhizomes
First of all, do not cover the rhizomes with soil.
I quite literally clear the ground of weeds and grass, then lay my Iris rhizomes on top of the bare soil and gently press them into the top 1/2 or so of the soil.
I leave the tops exposed.
When they put out roots, they will anchor themselves into the ground.
For those who live in an area where there is a danger of the rhizomes being carried away, construct a small metal cage to cover the rhizomes and anchor it to the ground.
This will keep the rhizomes safe until they anchor themselves into the ground.
I have found that once this happens they are pretty tough to dig up.
Be Sure To Remove Spent Blooms
I make a habit everyday to check on my Iris blooms.
I remove the spent blooms immediately.
I see no reason to let the blooms go to seed.
This keeps your Iris looking good and makes sure if the ones you have are the type that re-bloom that they will.
When a plant puts its energy into producing seeds, the flowers generally stop.
Caring For Your Iris
Once established I typically do not water Iris at all – nor do I fertilize.
Now you can fertilize by adding a little compost into the soil around the Irises but be sure to leave those Iris rhizomes exposed.
For those who prefer a water soluble or granular fertilizer be sure to choose one that is a bloom booster.
Dealing With Iris Borer’s
Now you do need to watch out for the Iris borer as this pest destroys Iris rhizomes.
Keep an eye on your Iris leaves.
The Iris borer puts little streaks or holes in the leaves that head straight towards the rhizomes.
If you see this pest you can try to find it in the leaf and crush it.
What I typically do is just cut the Iris leaves back and destroy them.
Once the pest is in your rhizome it destroys it.
Rhizomes that are affected are soft and mushy.
Insecticides and beneficial nematodes can greatly reduce the Iris borer population.
Keeping the area around your Iris clean and free of debris such as rotting leaves also helps.
In the event that you caught the problem before all of your Iris are destroyed, remove the soft spots of the rhizome with a sharp knife and soak the non-rotting parts in a 10% bleach solution for an hour or two.
Remove the rhizome from the bleach solution, let it dry, then dust it with a powdered fungicide such as sulfur or bulb dust and replant it.
Final Thoughts
Iris truly are one of the easiest summer bulbs to care for in the garden.
They are perennial here and multiply pretty rapidly.
I do dig and divide my Iris every 5 or 6 years when the clumps begin to get overcrowded.
I divide mine after the flowers have finished blooming.
For Iris that bloom once a year, I typically start dividing them in mid-August.
For repeat bloomers, wait until the finish their second flush of blooms in the fall.
I highly recommend the following articles:
- The Best Time To Plant Bulbs
- Growing Tropical Plants
- Easy To Grow Tomatoes Ideal For Container Gardens
- Monkshood Flowers For The Fall
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